The rebirth

 Introduction

1947 will remain a significant milestone in watchmaking history. 55 years ago, the first genuinely functional mechanical alarm wristwatch was presented by Vulcain. For the very first time, watchmakers and scientists had succeeded in achieving what many researchers had attempted before them: a mechanical alarm wristwatch powerful enough to actually wake up its owner.

For Vulcain, a company founded in 1858, the year 1947 was to mark the start of a new era. As soon the first alarm wristwatch models were presented, the whole world appeared to be clamouring for what would become “The Presidents' Watch”. More than 50 years later, the watch Manufacture intends to rebuild on the foundations of this exceptional legacy to write a major new chapter in the history of the Vulcain brand.

It is in Le Locle, strategically located in the Neuchâtel Jura region with its deep historical watchmaking roots that the company has decided to establish itself in order to revive the Vulcain brand and relaunch production of the Cricket movements in their original functions.

The new Vulcain philosophy is not to move mountains, nor to cultivate unbridled ambitions for the company. On the contrary, since the brand has not been particularly active during the past decade, it must first be revived before relaunching. It is through a policy based on a long-term vision that the new firm intends to regain a niche position in the watchmaking world of tomorrow.

The new company

In September 2001, Production & Marketing Horloger SA (PMH SA), based in Le Locle, acquired the Vulcain and Cricket brands as well as exclusive operating rights and production tools to the famous Cricket mechanical alarm movement.

President and CEO Bernard R. Fleury and Technical Director Alain Claude are the two main figures at the head of PMH SA. In light of the fine quality of the product and the exceptional horological heritage it represents, both men wished to revive the Cricket calibre and to give the Vulcain brand a new lease on life. PMH SA was set up on the basis of this determination.

Despite the brand's rich past, the new company does not intend to implement a backward-looking policy, either in marketing or sales terms. Bernard R. Fleury and Alain Claude are not devoting their energies to replicating what was done fifty years ago. Quite clearly, it is on the strength of the mechanical alarm calibre that the new company must be built, but they intend to use it as a springboard towards new horizons. Nonetheless, the rebirth announced in the spring of 2002 naturally needed to clearly express the strong ties between the brand's heyday in the past century and the new entity.

PMH SA is an independent firm and intends to remain so, even if it expresses its readiness to open up the capital to selective partners active within the company and wishing to work towards the brand's long-term development.

 Vulcain and Cricket :

A slice of watchmaking history

Founded in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1858 by Maurice Ditisheim, the Vulcain “comptoir” or watch factory developed rapidly, earning an international reputation while remaining and essentially family business. The real historical watershed for the “Fabrique des Montres Vulcain” came in 1947.

Since 1942, Robert Ditisheim, at the head of the company, had been working on the development of a mechanical wristwatch producing a sound loud enough to awaken its owner. This was a technical challenge that had already defeated many watchmakers. The primary difficulty lay in the capacity to produce a powerful mechanical sound within an extremely small volume.

While the idea of placing an alarm function in a wristwatch was nothing new, the success of this particular conception was to prove exceptional. Right from the emergence of timekeepers, watchmakers sought to equip it with an alarm, making it the oldest horological complication of all. In the 17 th century, the Geneva Watchmakers' Corporation imposed the crafting of a “small alarm clock” on anyone wishing to become a “Master”.

As was stated in an old press clipping: “the first unfruitful and incomplete patents were filed by researchers in 1892; the attempts to use a claw gently scratching the wrist, a bell or the addition of a rack comprising the acoustic organs all proved unsuitable.”

It was at this stage of knowledge that Robert Ditisheim and the engineers of the Manufacture Vulcain began their research. In its March 1949 issue, “La Suisse horlogère” recounts an essential event in the birth of this Calibre: “The tentative process of trial and error undertaken by the inventors featured several extremely varied phases. At the point when research appeared to have reached a dead end and specialists despaired of reaching a solution, French physician Paul Langevin visited the factory. He was informed about the work under way and asked whether he thought it was impossible to derive such a loud sound as an alarm from such a small volume. While proclaiming his incompetence in the field, the scholar observed that this miracle is accomplished in nature: despite its small size, the cricket emits a sound which is extremely piercing. The name of the new wristwatch eloquently conveys the preponderant influence of Langevin's analogy on subsequent attempts.”

Thus, after five years or research and development, Vulcain was able to present the famous Cricket in 1947, a strikingly lifelike reproduction of the strident cry of the diminutive insect which succeeds so well in making itself heard.

The new launch aroused immediate admiration in the watchmaking world and astonishment with regard to the intensity and length of the alarm for such a standard-sized wristwatch.

This innovative model began its remarkable career, particularly in the United States where presidents Eisenhower, Nixon and Johnson served as eminent ambassadors of the Cricket, nicknamed ever since “The Presidents' Watch”.

During this period of intense recognition, the Cricket also accompanied some of the greatest mountaineering expeditions of the 1950s, climbing to the highest and most difficult peaks of the Andes and the Himalaya ranges. The alarm wristwatch also flew with many aircraft captains during their frequent travels.

In 1961, Vulcain made a new splash with the introduction of the first Cricket Nautical for aquatic use. This model, equipped with an alarm that is audible under water, is being re-issued in 2002 and is an integral part of the new Vulcain collections.

Throughout its rich history, the Cricket Calibre experienced several fresh developments. Today's rebirth of the Manufacture Vulcain is firmly grounded on the 1947 base Calibre, on which certain modifications have been made. This original double-barrel Calibre is currently serving as the basis for entirely new developments.

Vulcain : the renewal

The philosophy behind the renewal

Bernard R. Fleury and Alain Claude have decided to invest in the renewal of Vulcain for three main reasons. First of all, they are certain of the enduring value of the Cricket Calibre. Secondly, they are passionately interested in the history of the Vulcain brand and certain that it has remained alive in many people's memories, associated with a product that is very positively perceived. Finally, the company leaders are convinced that the alarm wristwatch still has a bright future ahead of it. Building on these three factors, the determination of the new managers is clear: to revive the Cricket Calibre associated with the Vulcain brand, and then develop new calibres based on what exists.

In industrial terms, the Cricket calibres and other watch components are made by a dozen sub-contractors in the Jura region and assembled by Vulcain.

Strategy

Measured ambition and healthy growth. Far removed from the consolidation trend we have been witnessing in the watchmaking sector in recent years, Vulcain intends to occupy a niche which is by definition not indefinitely expandable. The owners are determined to rebuild a strong brand with an excellent reputation on the solid existing foundations, and then to consolidate it and grow it through innovative products. The directors' experience makes them aware that such an approach can only be effective over the long term.

No media stunts or tricks: the company intends to master its growth with dexterity and patience.

With this in mind, Vulcain is currently setting up a distribution network involving distributors genuinely prepared to actively commit themselves to the brand's renewal, while also working towards the long term.

Objectives

Occupying a niche within the watch market with high-quality products is Vulcain's primary objective.

To achieve this, Vulcain wishes to be representative of a watchmaking tradition that has inspired Swiss watchmaking for over two centuries and features a successful blend of craftsmanship techniques and modern technologies. In this respect, the decision to locate the company in a mansion in Le Locle is highly significant. It enables the company to operate at the heart of watchmaking production, to give a truly personalised orientation to the small existing structure and to guarantee the fine workmanship of Vulcain timekeepers.

Another clear-cut goal is to ensure company growth by the quality of its production and by the creativity that must be the signature feature on all new Vulcain models.

In terms of figures, the sales objective has been set at around 5,000 watches in 2002, aiming to reach 10,000 units in the medium term.

Distribution

Firmly establishing the distribution network by reinforcing the concept of partnership was the guideline for setting up a loyal and effective network of points of sale.

Distribution is initially targeting the following regions and countries: United States, the Far East (Japan, Hong Kong, Singapore) and Europe (Germany, Italy, France, Spain and Switzerland).

The first products stemming from the Vulcain renewal will be available at points of sale as of May/June 2002.

The new collections

The structure of the new Vulcain collections rests on three distinct pillars:

. Cricket Nautical

. Cricket Classic 1951 & Cricket Lady Classic 1951

. Cricket Aviator Dual-Time

They represent three of the fundamental elements: water, earth and air. These three product types also perfectly reflect Vulcain's philosophy, which aims to build on and drawn from a prestigious past, updating it in tune with current tastes and then taking it towards to new horizons.

All models are of course equipped with the mechanical hand-wound Cricket Calibre. All are available exclusively in steel or 18-carat rose gold.

The Cricket Nautical is a faithful re-edition of the Vulcain diver's watch presented in 1961, characterised by its alarm that is audible under water. This model, displaying the hours, minutes and seconds and including an alarm function, is fitted with a case measuring 42 mm in diameter. The triple case-back acts as a resonance chamber and ensures water-resistance to a depth of 300 metres. The dial is a replica of the 1961 model, featuring an inner dial activated by the crown at 4 o'clock and providing decompression table indications. It is available on a leather or rubber strap or on a steel bracelet. The Cricket Classic 1951 is inspired by the Vulcain timekeepers of the 1950s, but reinterpreted in a design corresponding to current trends. It displays the hours, minutes and seconds and includes an alarm function. This model is equipped with a case measuring 38 mm in diameter, a white or flinqué enamelled dial topped by a glareproofed cambered sapphire crystal. The double case-back serves as a resonance chamber and ensures water-resistance to 50 metres. It comes on a leather strap or steel bracelet. In its feminine version, the Cricket Lady Classic 1951 features a 33 mm case and a blue, pink or yellow mother-of-pearl or black dial. The Cricket Aviator Dual-Time model is an entirely new creation equipped with a dual time-zone function. It displays the hours, minutes seconds and includes an alarm and 12-hour dual time-zone function activated by a crown at 4 o'clock. This model is fitted with a 42 mm case. The double case-back serves as a resonance chamber and ensures water-resistance to 100 metres. Silver, black or enamelled dial. Available on leather or rubber strap or steel bracelet. Within this Cricket Aviator Dual-Time collection, a limited series of 25 watches in 18-carat rose gold is being offered. In order to highlight a more than century-old tradition, Vulcain is fitting this limited edition with cloisonné enamelled dials, resulting from a blend of patience, perseverance, deftness and finesse. Dials crafted according to the cloisonné enamel technique are harder to make, but enable more precise motifs. They demand infinite patience in bending and placing the gold threads, and then applying enamel in the alveoli using a goose feather. The cloisonné enamel motif of this limited series relates to the history of aviation and is a tribute to the Aeropostale (French airmail service). The Cricket movement has been entirely modelled on a Computer-Assisted Design system. It is now series-made using the most efficient production processes. Its 157 components are then tested and meticulously assembled by hand in the grand watchmaking tradition. The size of the current Cricket movement has not changed since it was first created in 1947, but certain improvements have been made: Use of Incabloc shock-absorbers Updated regulating organ Use of more high-performance materials More meticulous finish Blued steel screws The characteristics of the Cricket movement are: 12 -lignes mechanical hand-wound calibre 28 mm in diameter 5.6 mm thick 17 jewels Double barrel 157 parts 18,000 vibrations per hour 42-hour power-reserve 20-second alarm duration Fine rating Exactomatic The Exactomatic system was patented by Vulcain in 1946. It consists of a principle which equalises friction in all positions in relation to the balance-staff, by modifying the endstones of the Incabloc shock-absorbers. This results in more regular amplitude. The Exactomatic principle thereby ensures greater precision and improved regularity of the watch when worn.

Vulcain's future also implies the ongoing evolution of the Cricket Calibre. With this in mind, the design-engineering (R&D) department has been integrated within the company in order to develop the Calibre, particularly by adding further functions.